OK, I could only hold out so long. I know I have way too many boats (yes, I’m addicted), but I had lots of extra wood from past projects, and all the tools I need, so I decided to support Brian and Liz at Cape Falcon Kayaks by building one of their designs: the basic “F1” model. This boat will be perfect for paddling in Puget Sound, and maybe out to the Broken Group, and Brian has not only dialed in the design, but provides an INCREDIBLE video course and plans. Not only are the designs actively improved by Brian (who is very thorough as an instructor), but the video and plans layout is created by Liz who has a passion for both web and building design. They are also offering several modifications to the F1, including an option for a sail… how could I NOT build one of these?
Did I say they were beautiful, too? And built with cedar and oak (my favorite woods), covered in bullet-proof fabric, and hand-dyed to warm earth tones. A wonderful mix of modern and sustainable and cool. I’m hoping my wife forgives me the extra evenings I’ve been spending in the shop!
I’m documenting the building process, but not step-by-step (go pay for the plans and build one)! Just an overall impression of the build and how much I’m enjoying it.
First off, Brian suggests building a work table with a thin top to allow easily clamping pieces to it with pinch clamps. I’ve ALSO been obsessively following Rex Krueger, who teaches woodworking and espouses reuse and inexpensive hand tools. I’ve always wanted to build Rex’s wonderful traditional english joiner’s bench: a heavy bench with a face vice and bench dogs and leg bracing. The idea of a lightweight table for kayak building just didn’t sit right, especially if I was going to do the hand-planing that Brian wants me to. So I compromised. I bought Rex’s plans, and mostly followed them: cross-braces on the legs half-lapped, aprons braced with trestles let into the face, lag bolts and construction adhesive. But instead of the 2×10 tops I bought a sheet of 3/4″ ply and screwed it on top so I could edge clamp. It’s a nice compromise: stiff enough for light planing, good options for face clamping or edge clamping, but light enough for me to drag around the tiny shop so I can get to all sides of the kayak.
Note the cross-braces on the legs - keeps the workbench stiff.
Rex recommends construction adhesive along with screws: it's very strong but flexes enough to keep from breaking when using a mallet.
Trestles, ribs and a "key" keep the bench from "wracking" or twisting when working.
I changed the overlap for the top to overlap exactly 1.5 inches, so the apron can be flush with the edge of the top and a face vice installed.
You can see the apron flush with the top, and the extensive leg bracing to keep it all stiff.
The compromise: thin top for edge clamping, thin 2x4 legs, 2x8 apron for face vice. I like it!
Here you see the "key" rib in the middle, which is notched into the aprons and leg braces butt against it. This table does NOT sway.
Attaching the ply top: I'll change this out to 2x10's after the kayak build so I can install bench dogs and plane the top super flat.
It fits in the space my old "shelf" bench was in, but I can drag this into the middle of the shop and work all the way around it. CFK kayak plans sit at the ready!